Article

With Winter looming, it is important to start giving your skin some extra TLC. A smooth, moisturised canvas is essential to a polished make up application, especially with the sheeny finishes we're seeing on catwalks this Autumn/Winter. To banish rough skin and scarring, work an acid exfoliant into your routine. Containing AHA's (alpha hydroxy acids) like Glycolic, Salicylic or Tartaric acid, these toners rid your skin of dead skin cells, revealing smoother, glowing skin. Swipe Pixi Glow Tonic across your face in the evenings to even skin tone and add radiance to your complexion. Inject some extra moisture into your routine with the addition of Serums and Oils. If you don't like the feeling of heavy oils on your face then the Aesop Parsley Seed Anti Oxidant Serum is the one for you! Bursting with super hydrating and soothing Aloe Vera, this gel like serum delivers soft and soothed skin overnight. Prefer something even more nourishing? Try an overnight treat like the Origins Drink Up Intensive Overnight Mask. Simply slather on in the evening and wake up to peachy, plump skin. If you still feel like your skin needs an extra boost, prime your skin with MAC Strobe Cream. This hydrating, pearlescent cream is the perfect base for make up, or can be mixed in with your foundation for lighter, radiant coverage.

Face Mask and Sand Photoshoot

These are some of my favourite images from the shoot I did showing my model wearing a face mask. I wanted to model to have quite a neutral pose as this is just a shot to compliment my article. I decided not to use a shot of my model when looking down, as I found it looked slightly strange as the eyelids are bare. I like the angle of the second image but I have decided I think it looks like my model is about to start talking. The third image is the one I will use for my article. I like the neutral, pleasant facial expression and the angle it is taken at. 

These are the images I tried with sand. The idea behind this was to show an over exaggerated version of dry, flaking skin or a rough skin texture. I initially thought that this was the look I would choose out of the two for my article. I found when shooting that it was very difficult to get the sand to show up as sand on the face as sand. I think it doesn't look prominent enough to make a statement in the picture and looks slightly like the model just has naturally rough skin. I think this is partially because the sand was quite similar in tone to the models skin, and could of looked better on someone with a darker or lighter skin. 

Inspiration for my Face Mask photoshoot

To accompany my article I wanted to have a picture of a model with either a face mask on, or with sand stuck to her face to mimic rough, flaky skin. I wanted it to be obvious in the picture that it was sand and that is was only mimicking dry skin. I think that the one showing the face mask would be more relevant to my article but still would like to play around with the sand to see the results.

Grossman, M. (2014) The best face mask for your skin type. Available at: http://stylecaster.com/beauty-high/best-face-mask-for-your-skin-type/#_a5y_p=2935737 (Accessed: 3 December 2015).

November 2010 - page 32 of 113 (2010) Available at: http://www.eyeshadowlipstick.com/date/2010/11/page/32/ (Accessed: 3 December 2015).

Thorn, K. (2014) 13 simple tricks to get clear skin overnight. Available at: http://www.brit.co/clear-skin-overnight/?utm_campaign=pinbutton_hover (Accessed: 3 December 2015).

and, D. N. and Nelson, D. (2013) Stunning photography inspiration. Available at: http://www.fromupnorth.com/photography-inspiration-676/ (Accessed: 3 December 2015).

(no date) Available at: http://images.totalbeauty.com/uploads/editorial/articles/321/thumb-totalbeauty-logo-15-homemade-face-masks.jpg (Accessed: 3 December 2015).

Lighting for Editorial & my 'Get the Gloss' shoot

Lighting is very important for editorial beauty shoots. Different lighting affects how the skin appears on camera, how bright the eyes are and the colour payoff you see from the make up. There are several different set ups that can be used to take your picture and which you choose depends on a number of things. 

• The age of your model and condition of their skin. Softer lighting is more flattering on anyone with problem skin, or someone of an older age. Soft-boxes are great for this. If you know your model has flawless skin then you can get away with using a harsher light. 
• Are you shooting close ups, body shots or both? Close ups should be shot with a beauty dish as the light is more concentrated in one area, where as Soft-boxes diffuse the light more so are perfect for full body shots or shooting multiple people.
• Work with your idea's. If your design calls for a harsher/softer lighting then go with it. The lighting is a tool to benefit your design for example if you think that it would look best with very dramatic lighting and half the face in shadow.

As the main thing I wanted to stand out in my images is the glossiness of the make up, I needed lighting that would help emphasise this. I decided as I was shooting close ups and my model had nice skin,  I would use a beauty dish directly in front of the model and two soft boxes on either side. This lighting set up insured that whichever way my model turned or moved, there was light coming sideways across the face to catch the gloss on the eye or cheek. I found the shine showed up the most far more when she stood side on or diagonally instead of facing the camera head on. 

McKim, J. K. (2013) Secrets to crafting top-quality beauty portraits: Studio lighting. Available at: https://fstoppers.com/studio/secrets-crafting-top-quality-beauty-portraits-studio-lighting-8426 (Accessed: 25 November 2015).

Beauty Illustration

I tried to design an illustration of a tube of moisturiser I could use in my project. I wanted the design to look quite cartoony and sketchy. I didn't end up using this drawing as it didn't fit the look of my final article, but I enjoyed experimenting with illustration and how to work it into a project and the design of the page.

Article intro & Trend Feature Captions

Article intro: With Winter looming, it is important to start giving your skin some extra TLC. A smooth, moisturised canvas is essential to a polished make up application, especially with the sheeny finishes were seeing on catwalks this A/W. Inject some extra moisture into your routine with the addition of Serums and Oils. I love the Aesop Parsley Seed Anti Oxidant Serum - If you don't like the feel of heavy oils on your face then this is the one for you! Bursting with super hydrating and soothing Aloe Vera, this gel like serum delivers soft and soothed skin overnight. Prefer something even more nourishing? Try an overnight treat like the Origins Drink Up Intensive Overnight Mask. Simply slather on in the evening and wake up to peachy, plump skin.

Captions for each trend feature look:

The new office chic. Pep up tired weekday make up by defining the eyes in subtle berry tones and swap matte lipstick for a gloss in a creamy beige. We love the Charlotte Tilbury Lip Lustre in Bardot Beige for a high shine finish. Pretty and professional!

For a fresh take on the Vampy lip, keep lids nude and sheeny for an undone look and let the berry lip do the talking! For a colour that will hold all night, try the By Terry Velvet Rouge in Bohemian Plum.

Who says dewy skin is just for Summer? Exude off duty cool all year round with an 'I woke up like this' glow and berry stained lips. Get the look by popping MAC Cream Colour Base in Pearl on the cheekbones, nose, cupids bow and anywhere else that catches the light.

Product Shots

As my product shots were going into my article, I knew I wanted to keep them simple and something that I could cut out easily and place onto my page. Also as I am writing about skincare, the products aren't as fun to smear out and photograph as they are mostly all white and hard to differentiate between. I knew that I needed separate shots of each product against a white background to cut out and use in my article, but also wanted to capture the products all together and try adding some props to create more interesting photo's. I really like this first image I took with the citrus fruits and lily although I don't feel like this layout is something that you would see on the type of magazine article I am hoping to produce. For this reason I am not including it in my article or on my final page as I just don't think it fits my theme, article or colour palette, but I had fun experimenting with the props to see what I could create.  

Make up trials

This is my practise for the first of my designs. I used a semi matte foundation so that the skin looked matte but not lifeless. I used a pale pink shadow on my lid and blended a plum shade into the crease. I feel like the lips need to be glossier and will keep this in mind when re creating this look for my shoot.

This is the practise for my second design. I used the same lip colour as in the third design but blended it over my lips to create a stain. I used a bronze shadow on the lids and added highlighter to the high points of my face to create a strobed effect. 

For the third design I started by applying a nude gloss to the lids. I decided that I wanted a more opaque effect, so mixed a nude shade out of MAC Lip Mix and applied the nude gloss on top. I was happier with this result so this is what I will apply to my model at the shoot. I will powder the skin more when it comes to shooting as I would like it to be more matte with no shine on the forehead etc. 

Face Charts

These are the face charts I have created for my three designs. 

Look One: The Polished Pout

Look Two: The Winter Glow

Look Three: The New Vamp

Inspiration for Look Three: The New Vamp

These are the images that are the inspiration behind the third look in my trend feature: The Varnished Vamp. Vampy, berry toned lips are always on trend in the Autumn and Winter, but I didn't want to stick to the usual pairing of a berry lip with a gold eye. My favourite thing about the top image is the darkness of the lip, it compliments the models black hair and dark freckles perfectly. As my model is blond, I think a colour this dark would be too overpowering on her so I will have to choose a lighter shade. I love the eyes in the second look, although I would like a nude base to my gloss when I create my look to give a more opaque effect. I really love this bottom left image, but I as the eyes are peachier in tone, it becomes less wearable and I don't feel most everyday women would be comfortable in this. In the last image, the MUA has created a very pale base and left the lashes and brows blonde. I think this creates quite a ghostly, gothic feel.

Magazine, G. (2012) 1 trend 4 ways: Glossy, Dewy, wet eyelids (that Aren’t slimy). Available at: http://www.glamour.com/lipstick/blogs/girls-in-the-beauty-department/2012/12/1-trend-4-ways-glossy-dewy-wet (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

Magazine, G. (2015) 4 date-night lip colors to try, as seen on Miranda Kerr. Available at: http://www.glamour.com/lipstick/blogs/girls-in-the-beauty-department/2015/01/miranda-kerr-spring-lip-colors?mbid=social_pinterest (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

The beauty model (2015) Available at: http://thebeautymodel.tumblr.com/page/21 (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

nextcanada (2014) Posts about Alice Ma on next models Canada. Available at: https://nextcanada.wordpress.com/tag/alice-ma/page/2/ (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

Inspiration for Look Two: The Winter Glow

These images above are the inspiration behind the second look in my feature. I love the stained berry lips in the top left and bottom right images, along with the smudged, bronze eyes seen in the top right and bottom left looks. I want the skin for this look really dewy and healthy like the first two images. Having wet hair wasn't something I had considered for my look as although it is a Winter take on the 'beachy glow' look seen in Summer, I don't associate wet hair with this time of year. I do quite like this idea though as I think paired with glowy skin, a bronze eye and a stained lip, it would give the look a very laid back, got ready in a hurry sort of feel.  

FELLT (no date) Available at: http://fellt.com/ (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

Google+ badge (2014) Available at: http://justanamazingmakeup.blogspot.ca/2014/08/wet-look-and-smokey-eye.html (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

HANGING | studded hearts (2014) Available at: http://www.studded-hearts.com/2014/01/hanging/ (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

Inspiration for Look One: The Polished Pout

The first look in my trend feature is a slight twist on the pretty, polished make up that women typically wear to work or on a daily basis. The bottom left image is an example of the sort of look I am going for, very natural, just adding slight definition. I love the colour and shine of the bottom right image as the colour is very wearable but the shininess is slightly unexpected and would tie in well with my story. When defining the eyes, instead of using neutrals I want to use pale pink and plum matte eyeshadows as I love the way these colours look with beige (on the lips) and it gives a slightly different look, while still defining the eyes in a subtle way. 

LIP LUSTRE - Charlotte Tilbury (2014) Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/18295942210598350/ (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

My bag (2015) Available at: http://www.charlottetilbury.com/uk/ (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

⠀⠀✨💗ANNA💗✨ @pinkperception today’s #eotd ❤️ ...Instagram photo(2014) Available at: http://websta.me/p/1003177903692893740_1191117226 (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

Mood Board

This is the mood board I made to brainstorm idea's for my trend feature. I have included pictures that inspire me and the colour palette I will be using so that the looks in my trend feature all coordinate well together. The colours used will be Plums, nudes and beiges to be in keeping with the season and latest trends. The style of the mood board is an idea for the way I would like my final print style page to look using borders and text boxes. The images shown are some that have inspired my designs and that are inspired by current Autumn/Winter 2015 trends. 

Target Audience

I am going to be writing my trend feature and article as if I am writing for a magazine like Glamour or Cosmopolitan. The target audience of these magazines mostly females aged 18-34 and  I think both magazines are read by women who earn both high and low salaries. Although a lot of the products featured in these magazines are still from high end brands, they do sometimes feature items from cheaper brands and high street stores where as rivals such as Vogue and Elle have a more 'high fashion' feel. I thought writing from a magazine like Glamour or Cosmo fitted my choice of trend feature and article best, as although Vogue may show which products to use to re create a catwalk look, they don't often do trend features where they create their own looks that are inspired by the trends.

• 18-34
• Predominantly female
• Prefers a realistic, fun approach to high fashion make up looks that may not be as wearable.
• Shops at both high street or designer brands for clothing and cosmetics.

Cozens, C. (2000) Cosmopolitan. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/media/2000/dec/18/mondaymediasection1 (Accessed: 3 December 2015).

Elliott, S. (2014) Glamour magazine campaign tries to claim a generation. Available at: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/10/business/media/glamour-magazine-campaign-tries-to-reach-millennials.html?_r=0 (Accessed: 3 December 2015).

(no date) Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glamour_(magazine) (Accessed: 3 December 2015).

GET THE GLOSS

My Trend Feature will be titled 'Get the Gloss' - focusing on three wearable ways to add gloss into your beauty repertoire. I love dark plum tones and they are very on trend this Autumn and Winter so have incorporated these colours into the make up. There will be three different looks in the story, one polished and wearable for a work type situation, one glowy and relaxed, and one more dramatic evening look with perfected skin, a dark lip and a high gloss eye. I am also going to write an article on how to keep your skin moisturised to create a good base for make up, with product suggestions.

Look One: The Polished Pout

This look will be a new take on the classic nude, polished, everyday look that most women would go for on a usual working day. Perfected skin, subtle eye make up and a nude lip. To go with the glossy theme of this story and tie in with A/W trends I will use pinky, plummy shades to define the eye, and add a high gloss finish to the beige brown lip. I want to keep this look naturally polished, so will only use one coat of mascara and a brown liner pencil to make the lashes appear thicker. This has taken inspiration from the glossy lips seen at Rag and Bone, Fendi and Rodarte. 

Look Two: The Winter Glow

I want this look to be a A/W take on a 'beachy' look. I will use a foundation in a light coverage or a tinted moisturiser to even out the skin and won't powder the face.  In summer this kind of look would call for heavily bronzed skin, but I want to achieve a paler, honey tone to keep it realistic for the time of year. This is a look that would be suitable for a laid back weekend, with a smudge of bronze cream shadow across the lids, and a stained berry lip. This very stain was seen at Topshop Unique, Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan while Boss showed models with radiant, dewy complexions. 

Look Three: The New Vamp

I love really dark, berry toned lips and think it is best to wear them with not a lot on the eye. This look is typically seen worn with gold tones on the eye, but I want to try pairing this matte berry lip with a nude, glossy eye. I want the skin to be really perfected here, and slightly contoured to add definition. This look was seen at Emanuel Ungaro and Giles, while glossy eyelids were seen this season at Nina Ricci.

Glossy Eyes

Glossy eyelids have been a recurring theme on catwalks for years and are now seen more and more on on the red carpet too. I love this trend as I think it looks very unusual, and very polished yet undone at the same time. It is the perfect eye look to go with a bold lip as its definitely not boring but if done over a nude eye base it doesn't add any colour and lets the colour speak for itself.

Lui Wen wearing a peachy gold, glossy lid on the Bottega Veneta S/S catwalk in 2011. I love the colour of this look as it is bright but still looks glassy and transparent.

I love this Mauve, creamy and glossy eye look from Diane Von Furstenburg in 2014. It still looks very natural and pretty while making a statement.

Beyonce wore a nude glossy eye look in her 'Ghost' music video. She has also been seen wearing the trend on the red carpet. 

Make up inspo (2014) Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/301952349989032809/ (Accessed: 28 November 2015).

Wagoner, M. (2014) Beauty chemistry: Glossy lids. Available at: https://intothegloss.com/2014/02/how-to-do-glossy-eyeshadow/ (Accessed: 28 November 2015).

(no date) Available at: http://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/blogs/www/backstage-beauty-diane-von-furstenberg-fw-2014 (Accessed: 28 November 2015).

Berry Stain Vs Blackcurrant Lip

Dark lips are back in fashion this season but there are two different ways to wear the colour. This shade is so fitting for A/W and is almost always on trend at this time of year. This season there are two different ways to wear the trend - As a full blown blackberry lip, or a more subtle stain. The colour palette this year is definitely more purple or plum as opposed to the oxblood shade seen in previous years.

Emanuel Ungaro and Giles went for full on dark, blackberry lips where as Topshop Unique and Marc Jacobs models wore a more smudged out, bitten stain. I think that while the dark, opaque colour is perfect for an evening look or to make a statement, I love the stain for a wearable way to wear a berry lip. I want to show both looks in my feature to show multiple ways to wear a catwalk trend. I will pair the stain with a very laid back look with fresh, dewy skin and a bronze eye while the deeper lip would work well with a very neutral glossy eye.

The beauty model (2015) Available at: http://thebeautymodel.tumblr.com/page/21 (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

nextcanada (2014) Posts about Alice Ma on next models Canada. Available at: https://nextcanada.wordpress.com/tag/alice-ma/page/2/ (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

FELLT (no date) Available at: http://fellt.com/ (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

HANGING | studded hearts (2014) Available at: http://www.studded-hearts.com/2014/01/hanging/ (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

Strobing

Strobing is a recent trend, similar to contouring except instead of carving out the hollows of the face by adding darkness, you accentuate the high points by adding a lighter shade or illuminator. For it to be the strobing technique instead of just highlighting, there needs to be no contour. The highlight should be dusted across the cheekbones, nose, cupids bow and temples to create a really glowy look. I think that this look is best with minimal make up on the eyes and lips. This look has inspired one of the looks in for my project as I think it would be perfect for a minimal weekend make up look where the skin is the central focus.

Camp, J. (2014) 4 skin finishes to try now. Available at: http://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/4-skin-finishes-to-try-now-stylist-magazine/slide2 (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

Everything you need to know about ‘Strobing’ (2015) Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/354728908128978076/ (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

Thorne, L., Lifestyle and 15, C. 13 s* (2013) 6 best makeup tricks you need to master. Available at: http://dropdeadgorgeousdaily.com/2013/10/best-makeup-tricks/ (Accessed: 2 December 2015).

A/W 2015 Beauty Trends

According to Vogue, 'rich girl' beauty - meaning polished make up and hair is back in this A/W. The look is about perfecting the features instead of drawing attention to one in particular. Seen on the runways of Donna Karan, Herve Leger, Bottega Veneta and Prada, this look is perfectly wearable and office appropriate.

In contrast to previous years, mascara was seen at many of the A/W shows such as Nina Ricci, Blumarine and Alberta Ferretti where models had long, fluttery lashes. I think this adds a definite wearability to a catwalk trend as most women would not be comfortable going out without their mascara.

Hair was pulled back into elegant up do's or high buns and pony's at Chanel, Balenciaga and Prada. Accessories like jewelled clips and barettes were seen decorating most of these styles.

After seasons of Matte lips being popular, the shows at NYFW showed that gloss is back. High shine lips were seen at Rag and Bone, Rodarte and Fendi while glossy lids were seen at Nina Ricci.

Dark, blackcurrant toned lips took over at Emanuel Ungaro and Giles, white Topshop Unique, Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan all had models sporting a subtler, berry stained lip. The tones were plums and purples, with no red lips in sight.

Warm, toffee and honey shades are on trend this season. Seen at Thakoon and Prabal Garung, this colour was worn as a wash of matte shadow on the lids and also on the cheeks, lips and nails.

Blackcurrant lips (2015) Available at: http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/beauty/beauty-features/2015/09/aw15-makeup-trends-beauty-ideas/viewgallery/1351496 (Accessed: 25 November 2015).

Rich-girl beauty (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/03/13/hair-beauty-trends-for-autumn-winter-2015/gallery/1339032 (Accessed: 25 November 2015).

The anti red lip (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/03/13/hair-beauty-trends-for-autumn-winter-2015/gallery/1345097 (Accessed: 25 November 2015).

The new hair up (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/03/13/hair-beauty-trends-for-autumn-winter-2015/gallery/1356457 (Accessed: 25 November 2015).

The return of lip gloss (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/03/13/hair-beauty-trends-for-autumn-winter-2015/gallery/1340562 (Accessed: 25 November 2015).

Toffee tones (2015) Available at: http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/beauty/beauty-features/2015/09/aw15-makeup-trends-beauty-ideas/viewgallery/1372569 (Accessed: 25 November 2015).

Oily Skin & Dewy Skin

Depending on your skin type, some skins will produce more of less oil. While most people with oily skin see it as a problem as they struggle to get their make up to stay on, having oilier skin is better in the long run as this moisture will help the skin youthful for longer. Oily skin is often associated with acne, but as long as the skin is being properly looked after with regular cleansing then the pores shouldn't become blocked.

The interesting thing is that while most people don't like having oily skin, it is the inspiration for any dewy, glowing make up look that you see. The dewy look aims to make the wearer look very healthy and radiant, without looking overly sweaty. However in some images, you can see that the 'wet look' effect has been designed to look like sweat. In the real world most women wouldn't go out in this very extreme, borderline sweaty look. So why is it so popular in advertising and editorial beauty? I think that it is because this look promotes heath. Skin looks its best after exercise which is why we are constantly trying to re create that perfect natural flush or sheen on the cheek bones. This has inspired the highlighted trends such as strobing which are designed to bring out the high points of the face (which are normally where you get oily naturally!) using shimmery illuminators to fake that glow.

(no date) Available at: http://www.shefinds.com/files/2014/06/SweatProofMakeup2.jpg (Accessed: 25 November 2015).

(no date) Available at: http://billdiodato.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/wet_face_4.jpg (Accessed: 25 November 2015).

(no date) Available at: http://wellandgood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/workout-in-makeup.jpg (Accessed: 25 November 2015).

Eczema & Dry, Flaky Skin

Eczema is a skin condition that causes a dry, itchy flaky rash to appear on the skin. While some cases are more extreme, it is not uncommon for  someone to have some mild eczema on their face. Common areas are around the nose, mouth and eyes. Eczema is a disease that will affect the person for life, but certain foods or weather conditions can cause it to flare up. The condition can be managed with the application of topical corticosteroids and regular moisturising.  Dry Skin brought on by the cold is also very likely, especially throughout the Winter months. This makes the job of a make up artist harder, but it is important to know how to manage dry skin and prep the skin for make up.

Choices, N. (2015) Atopic eczema - NHS choices. Available at: http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Eczema-(atopic)/Pages/Introduction.aspx (Accessed: 25 November 2015).